Michael Westmacott’s main job on the 1953 expedition was in the Khumbu Icefall—pioneering the route, later keeping it open, and finally descending it with James Morris to get the news of the successful ascent home.
Westmacott was educated at Radley School and Oxford, and during World War II served in Burma with the Indian Army Engineers. He climbed extensively in the UK and the Alps before going to the Himalayas for the first time in 1953, and continued to do so afterward, making first ascents in Peru, the Hindu Kush, and northern Alaska. He was President of the Alpine Club and of the Climbers Club. Trained as a statistician, he worked in agricultural research and then in Shell International until retirement.